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February 18, 2010

Dash Trim Kits For Your Car’s Interior

Filed under: Automotive — Tags: , — admin @ 9:31 pm
Matt Brooks asked:




Dash Trim Kits come in a variety of styles including vinyl dash trim, carbon fiber dash trim, aluminum dash trim, oxford dash trim, and real dash trim. These kits are made with 3M adhesive on the back for easy installation, and are cut using CNC laser cutting technology for superior quality and perfect fit.

The vinyl dash trim kits are the least expensive of the kits. These vinyl kits are a vinyl graphic that attaches to your existing dash trim. It is a thin, pliable vinyl that installs flawlessly and give a great finished appearance. These dash kits come in a wide range of finishes, from aluminum, to wood, to carbon fiber, and solid colors. They are UV coated to resist fading and peeling too.

Carbon Fiber Dash Trim is made out of a heavy duty UV coated material and finished with the carbon fiber finish. These kits are available in a variety of colors such as blue, silver, black, pink, red, green, etc. and are really a fantastic interior upgrade.

Aluminum Dash Trim Kits are similar to the carbon fiber kits in material, but have a metallic aluminum finish. These kits are available in brushed aluminum, OEM aluminum, chrome, etc. and are also UV coated to prevent wear and fading.

Real Dash Trim Kits are made of the same 82.5 mil UV coated material as the carbon fiber and aluminum kits, and come in all the finishes. Carbon Kits and Aluminum Kits fall into this category of dash trim. This is the best quality of dash trim that is available in all styles.

There is also the Oxford Dash Trim Kits which are the highest quality wood finish kits. These kits have an exceptional high gloss finish and are as close to real wood as you can get. These kits have been installed in vehicles as an OEM dash trim and meet or exceed auto manufacturers expectations for fitment and finish.

Dash Trim Categories look like this:

Vinyl Dash Trim Kits:

- Aluminum OEM

- American Rosewood

- Black CF( Carbon Fiber)

- Chrome

- Dark Burlwood

- English Burlwood

- Exotic Brushed Aluminum

- Lavish Burlwood

- Mahogany Burlwood

- Marble Wood

- Mustard Birdseye Maple

- Oxford Burlwood

- Real CF

- Satin Aluminum

- Silver CF

- Simulated CF

- Simulated Silver CF

- Solid Blue

- Solid Navy Blue

- Solid Red

- Solid White

- Solid Yellow

- Yellow CF

- Zebrano wood

Real Dash Trim Kits:

- Aluminum OEM

- American Rosewood

- Black CF

- Chrome

- Dark Burlwood

- English Burlwood

- Exotic Brushed Aluminum

- Lavish Burlwood

- Mahogany Burlwood

- Marble Wood

- Mustard Birdseye Maple

- Oxford Burlwood

- Real CF

- Satin Aluminum

- Silver CF

- Simulated CF

- Simulated Silver CF

- Solid Blue

- Solid Navy Blue

- Solid Red

- Solid White

- Solid Yellow

- Yellow CF

- Zebrano wood

Oxford Dash Trim Kits:

- Dark Burlwood

- English Burlwood

- Exotic Brushed Aluminum

- Lavish Burlwood

- Mahogany Burlwood

- Marble Wood

- Mustard Birdseye Maple

- Oxford Burlwood

February 16, 2010

Custom Dash Gauges, Pods and Dash Covers - A Guide

Filed under: Automotive — Tags: , — admin @ 6:23 am
Valerie Mellema asked:




Customizing your ride does not stop with the exterior. There are many ways to add style and function to the interior of your ride. While interior lighting, custom shifter knobs, steering wheels and seats offer you many benefits, one area that must not be overlooked is your dash. Dash gauges offer you numerous benefits, allowing you to track every nuance of vehicle performance, from oil pressure/temperature to turbo and supercharger operation and your RPMs. Custom gauge pods and dash covers will give you the look you need and house your accessories.

Why should you purchase custom dash gauges for your ride? Most automakers provide very few gauges in the dash. The speedometer, a temperature gauge, the odometer and the fuel gauge are all that the OEM usually includes. While that small selection is fine for commuters and standard drivers, those who add performance enhancements to their vehicles usually require more in the way of information.

Custom dash gauges provide you with a wide range of information. For instance, many vehicles do not have a tachometer today; even straight shift models sometimes lack this fundamental gauge. You can purchase aftermarket tachometers that even provide you boots information. Water temperature, oil temperature, exhaust temperature, air-fuel mixture readings, voltmeters for gauging your battery power and oil pressure gauges are all more than handy. For the serious tuner, these gauges are vital.

To hold those gauges, you’ll need gauge pods. These are aftermarket housings that adhere or ***** to your dash or A column. Custom gauges fit inside the pods, providing a sleek, streamlined look for your interior. You’ll find pod clusters in sets of two and three, or even more. In addition, you can choose from a wide range of different colors. Different styles mount in different locations. While the top of your dash is the traditional place to mount gauges, the A column offers you ready access to the information and a great race car look.

Another popular option is that of gauge faceplates. These are custom colored gauge covers that fit over your existing gauges. Dash cluster removal is necessary for installation of these babies, though; make sure you know what you are doing before you choose to install them in your ride. White, red, blue and several other colors are available, as are “glow” effect faceplates.

Additionally, dash covers give you a way to protect your dash from the damaging effects of sunlight, while still maintaining a great look. Dash covers are custom made to fit your OEM dash and can be configured with numerous side panels and add-ons. These are available in several different colors, though black and tan are the two favorites.

Regardless of the exact gauge configuration you choose, you’ll find that installing gauges, dash covers and gauge pods can add a great look to your ride, as well as providing you with the information that you need about engine performance. A true tuner needs all the information available, in order to ensure proper engine performance.

February 6, 2010

Is Your Dash Leaking Dash Fluid?

Filed under: Automotive — Tags: , — admin @ 11:10 am
Tommy Sessions asked:




This morning when you, Bill, and Billy Jr. got into your Grand Marquis to go to church, you felt something ‘cold’ on your foot.

You look down and see ‘green’ stuff in the floor board…

and another drop falls onto your left foot, just above your shoe, and spreads on your stocking…

and you noticed it was a little warmer.

Your first thought, as you spoke aloud, was, “Is my car coming apart?”

Then you turned to Billy Jr. in the back…”What did you do to my car last night?”

Course he denies having done anything to the car on his date, and rightly so, this time.

Your car is not necessarily coming apart…You’re heater core is leaking.

The heater core is mounted inside a plastic case, along with the air conditioner evaporator core.

Coolant from the radiator flows through the heater core by way of a couple of hoses, then back to the engine.

This is where you get the ‘heat’ from when you turn your heater on…a little fan blows across the heater core and causes hot air to attack you in the passenger compartment of your car.

When the heater core gets a hole in it, the coolant will leak out…
just like the radiator in front of the engine.

Since it’s mounted under the dash, it naturally leaks onto the floor…and if there is a small foot there, it will probably drip onto it. :-(

There is a long story about *why* the heater core gets a hole in it, but for this article, let’s just say it is like the radiator, except it’s smaller.

Some of the chemicals in the anti-freeze/summer coolant causes them to deteriorate.

If you will flush the cooling system every other year you can just about eliminate this problem…isn’t that nice to know?

February 4, 2010

Dash Repair - How to Fix a Cracked Padded Dash

Filed under: Automotive — Tags: , — admin @ 4:14 pm
Michael N Warren asked:




Weather change is here and the cracked padded dashes are rolling in. With every weather change I get the phone calls. “My dash is cracked and what can be done to fix it.”

Due to the exposer to old mother nature, these materials become dried out and ***** over time leaving you with a ***** in your dash. Left unattended this small ***** can and will get larger.

There are measures that can be taken to prevent the dash from getting cracked in the first place. Now I know your dash is already cracked and your wanting to know how to fix it, but this will prevent further cracks and keep your car cooler and looking nicer, and well…. for further reference.

One way to prevent this is to use a sunshade. This will not only protect your automotive dash from the sun but also keep your vehicle cooler keeping the plastic pieces cooler and less likely to warp and then *****.

Another way to prevent the materials from drying on your dash is to condition them with a good vinyl conditioner-protectant. Now I know I’ve always said to not put the slimy stuff on your interior pieces and parts … But if your vehicle is exposed to the sun on a constant basis, then I would recommend you use a vinyl conditioner. Now I’m not going to say that any old vinyl conditioner will work, because it won’t. Tire shine is not vinyl conditioner! This is probably one of the biggest mistakes made, and I do a lot of repair because of it. Tire shine contains solvents, which as you know from previous articles, it doesn’t mix well with the water based dyes being used on todays cars. What it does is lifts the dye from the surface, causing it to peel. So no tire shine…What I recommend to my customers is a product made from a leather conditioning producer that I feel from some of the research I’ve done is safe and should work very well, it’s made by Lexol and it’s called Vinylex. Designed by the guys that really know their stuff when it comes to interior conditioning and protecting.

The last and final tip to keeping your automotive interior, including your dash, looking it’s best and lasting longer is window tint. Now in some states you need to be careful with the tinting laws to make sure you don’t get it too dark, plus you need to think of your safety too. I have tint on our family Tahoe and I kinda wish I would have gone a little lighter, at night it’s really hard to see, my Tahoe stays nice and cool, but it’s a pain in the **** at night. I have to roll the window down sometimes just to see. So keep it light and you will be impressed with the results, plus it looks cool.

Now on with the fix for that ***** in your dash.

Depending on where the ***** is and how big it is will depend on how to fix it and how expensive the repair will be. If the ***** is bigger then 2″-3″ and curled up on the edges, the repair will probably not look that great. There is a limit to the size of ***** that can be repaired, too big and it probably won’t hold and will look like crap. If the ***** is too big, replace the dash pad, don’t try to fix it. Another thing is location, if the ***** is up close to the windshield then it’s almost impossible to do a repair without removing the windshield, which can be costly. So with that said you be the judge.

The first thing I do before I start any repair is to mix my color, this insures that at least the color will be right.

Next I inspect the ***** in the dash, if the edges are curled up then you will need to trim that off with a razor blade or Xacto knife. The goal here is to get the area as level as you can. Now when doing so cut at a 45 degree angle and don’t bring the ends to a point, what I mean by this is trim all the way around the ***** rounding off the ends of the crack, this will insure that the ***** will stop and not ***** further after your repair.

Of course your next step is prepping the repair area, use your prep solution with a scotch brite pad and clean the area thoroughly. You might need to clean the entire dash depending on where and how large the ***** is.

Now it’s time to determine what fix you going to use.

If the ***** is smaller then an 1/2″ I usually grab the super glue and do a super glue repair. I do this by spreading the glue in the ***** then sanding it smooth with a 240 grit sandpaper, texture with your water based spray grain, then dye.

But there are times when your vinyl repair compound will need to be used, after all this is vinyl. The low cure usually works best because high heat tends to warp the repair area. This is where your patience comes in when doing your repairs. Thin layers of compound work best, curing and dying between coats until the area is level and smooth. You can texture while layering your compound with your grain pads. One little trick I use to help level the repair when using a grain pad is a little rubber squeegee about 3″x5″, it’s what body shops use to squeegee the water off the painted surface when they wet sand. This little thing works great, when you use your hand to imprint your grain into your repair, your hand kinda molds around the area and doesn’t leave a level area but with the rubber squeegee it gives you a little more backing when you go to imprint. Now graining your repair can be tricky, the low cure compound doesn’t grain that well, but if all else fails make sure the repair is level, this is your best hide. If that is achieved then texture with your spray grain.

One last trick up my sleeve is the use of a great product from Urethane Supply Co. This is a two part epoxy like substance that is specifically designed for padded dashes and the name says it all, Padded Dash Filler.
This stuff is the bomb, when it comes to dash repair. Mixes like Bondo and is even applied like bondo, but its flexible. It’s just what the doctor ordered when it comes to dash repair. If the ***** is larger then 1″ this is the stuff to use.

Now this product will require you to trim the area and then sand around the area about 1″ to 2″ out with a heavier grit sandpaper like a 180 grit, this gives it something to bite too. Trim down into the foam a little to, so that you make like a little groove for the compound to lay in.

Mix your compound on a small piece of tile, I like using small tile pieces, they clean up easily and are easier to hold when mixing and applying. Now when you get the product they send you the red catalyst, try the blue, it seems to set up a little quicker. The blue you can get at any automotive parts shop. But the red works just as good just takes it a little longer, time is money in my business.

Apply your compound liberally over the repair area, don’t worry about getting your first coat really smooth, all you need is to get it covered, you’ll be sanding it smooth later. Let it set up for a while, depending on the weather will depend on how long this stuff takes. You can speed it up a little with a heat gun but don’t melt it just give it a little boost.

Once hardened start sanding, I usually start with a 180 grit to knock off the big chunks then progressively move my way up to a finer grit like 240 and then to 400.

One coat won’t be sufficient, I promise, this is another layer thing. Sanding between coats. Each coat you apply you will need to make smoother. Again what your trying to achieve is a smooth level repair.

After all is smooth and level, grain with a spray grain then dye.

As far as texture goes, I use two types of spray grain. One is a water based spray grain and the other is Sems Texture Coat. In fact the Sems Texture Coat almost matches the some of the Pontiac dashes to a tee. Now the Sems Texture coat is a solvent based, but I haven’t had a problem with it peeling up against the water based dyes on the dash, so kudos to Sems.

One other trick I have found with the the Sems Texture Coat is after sprayed if you let it flash out a little but not dry completely, you can take your grain pad and imprint your grain into the texture coat, pretty cool huh.

Dash repair is an art and a craft, just like all automotive interior repairs. If the steps are followed right and patience is used in your repairs you success will be good.

Hope this helps in your dash repair adventure. One thing to always keep in mind is to keep your repair as level as possible, this is your best hide.

January 6, 2010

Troubleshooting: In-Dash CD or MP3 Player

Filed under: Automotive — Tags: , — admin @ 9:57 am
Chimezirim Chinecherem Odimba asked:




Here are steps to follow if your in-dash CD or MP3 player will not play discs or if they skip.

1) First of all, ensure that your discs are clean and not damaged and have been inserted into the in-dash player the correct way up. Try other discs, especially original CD’s, to see if they will play. This is especially necessary if you are using CD-R or CD/RW (copied discs). The problem could arise if a cheap CD-R is used. It could also arise if a disc is burned at too fast a speed or if the copier hadn’t finalized the disc completely.

2) Use a CD laser cleaner disc. These are available from any music store. When these are played in your CD player, they will clean the laser. This will take care of problems related to a dirty CD laser: Discs not playing or playing but skipping.

3) Ensure that the fascia contacts/connections aren’t worn and that the fascia is making good, solid contact. Because the fascia is removable, over time, the contacts can become dirty or worn. To find out how to clean your contacts, consult your radio handbook.

4) Press the ‘Reset’ button if your radio has one, and then check for correct operation. Consult your radio hand book for details.

5) If your radio doesn’t have a ‘Reset’ button, release your radio from your dash and physically disconnect the power connector and then reconnect and test for correct operation.

If the problem is still present after following the above, please, consult a car audio expert.

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